Stove: Part 2

This week I've been working on the single burner stove and the dividers behind bulkhead #4. The only dimensions I am sure of, are the ones for the stove. Without knowing what will be stored there, I am not sure how big the compartments should be. So, I just divided the remaining area in half.

The ability to easily change out the propane bottle was a must. I didn't want the need to fish for a screw driver in order to pull the burner. The holders pictured on the left, will be glued in the small compartment just behind the bulkhead. This design was the simplest I could come up with. The stove knobs will sit in the slot and the lid will slide over the bolts and be held in place with the wing nuts. These holders will be glued to the back of the bulkhead and the divider parallel to the bulkhead. I will post pictures when it is completely installed.

Today, I pulled out the rudder and rudder stock. They have been cut out, shaped and faired. The

rudder stock has a step mounted on the port side. This is a must. Without it, I would never be able to climb back aboard from the water. The lower pintle is a 5/8 inch rod running inside the length of the stock. This pintle will fit into a gudgeon that I will make.

The rudder is weighted, however, I haven't poured that yet. Maybe I can do that on Sunday.

My next post will have the stove completed and in place and the rudder filled with lead, so stay tuned.

Gimbaled Stove

Many distractions the last couple of weeks, but I think I'm making some progress on the build now. The cleat backing blocks at the bow and stern are in place, the two extra deck beams are glued in and the storage bin shelves are done on the starboard side and receiving paint now.

I'm making the gimbaled stove. I could not justify spending $165.00 for one, so I decided I would make one. Glen Maxwell made a stove for Zoe and posted pictures on the Paradox Yahoo group. It looks like a nice setup, so I am modeling mine after his with one change. I want mine to swivel in both directions.

I used 1 1/2" aluminum angle to make the frame that attaches to the burner. It is attached with rivets. A 1" aluminum strap was then bent for the outer frame. The two frames are connected with a bolt for the swivel. For the outer frame, I have door pulls that will slide into a block mounted on dividers behind bulkhead #4. I plan to work on that part this afternoon. I just couldn't wait to put the post up.

The cuts and bends are not perfect, but it is sturdy and I think it will work just fine. I'll post pics when I get it mounted in TARDIS.

Bobbing Ducks

Sunday, we hooked onto the boat trailer, loaded the sails and headed to Lake Somerville, Somerville, TX. We arrived at Birch Creek Park and the wind was blowing enough to make a few white caps here and there. There is a sandy beach next to the ramp which makes it a great place for our small boats. We pulled them off the trailer and beached them, easy. The wind was from the north, looked like it would be easy to catch the wind and sail off. Well, not the case, at least not for me. Dale had a little trouble getting far enough out where the wind was, but he made it. I, on the other hand, had trouble. Being short legged, if I get the boat out far enough to not get blown back in, it's too deep for me to get in the boat. ( Sigh ) Dale had to come back and give me a big push out into the lake. Okay, now I adjust the sail, and slowly make my way away from shore.

Once we did get launched, the wind was beginning to die down. No more white caps. As the day wore on, the wind, what there was of it, would shift... or stop completely. At times, we were just bobbing in the water.

This "no wind" thing did give us the opportunity to take pictures. That was a good thing.

All in all, we had a good time. On our way home, we stopped at Sealand in Brenham and had dinner. Good food.

Water Tank Plumbing: Part 1

Lezlie: "Just drill four holes. How hard can that be!"

I found that drilling the holes in the sides of the water tanks was not so easy. The length of the drill and bit was longer than the width of the tank. It was a challenge, but I managed to get holes in the appropriate places.

It was decided that the water tanks would be used for ballast only and not for drinking water. To fill the tanks, the pump will pull water from a hose that will connect to the outside of the hull and hang in the water.

This view is looking back toward the stern. The valve (the grey part) will let us fill or drain each tank separately.

This is aft bulkhead #3. This valve, and the pipe angled down will allow us to use the pump for draining the bilge... if needed. Hopefully, we will never need it, but have it just in case. Clear tubing will run along the port side to connect this valve to the pump. The pump will be located behind bulkhead #4. The next few days I will be working on the plumbing for the pump. This will be covered in Part 2.

From Epoxy to Paint

After moving the lead pigs around from place to place, and my hands getting grungy every time I touch them, I decided to coat them with something. I think this will help to keep the bilge cleaner too. I'm not sure what happens when lead comes in contact with water, but now I won't have to find out.

I took a wire brush and cleaned the lead pigs, then gave them four coats of Plasti Dip. It comes in two forms. You can dip or spray. I think it would be difficult to "dip" 30 pounds of lead, so I chose the spray.

Covering pretty wood with paint just seemed wrong today. But, I know the cabin has to be painted. This will make it lighter and seem bigger. I'm using Glidden Porch & Floor Polyurethane Oil Gloss paint in an off-white color. I've used this before and it holds up well. Besides, I had a half gallon left from the last boat.

The plumbing at the water tanks has been designed, and hopefully this weekend, will be installed. We don't have a pump yet, but that will sit behind bulkhead #4. I can go ahead and get everything done at the water tanks now. Be looking for that post next week.

Pig Pens

Have you priced silicon bronze bolts lately? Jamestown Distributors had a hand-held radio on sale this past weekend. I decided to buy it, and since I need silicon bronze bolts for the risers of the "pig pens", I thought I would get them from Jamestown Distributors also. WOW, they are very proud of them. Dale told me to look at the McMaster website, they have hardware. Sure enough, they are cheaper from McMaster.

These pigs are 2"x3"x12" and 30 pounds each.

The paradox plans call for 400 pounds of ballast. I don't know if we will need that much, but I have built space for that much. We can always take some out if we decide that we need less.

In order to use a short and cheaper bolt, I needed to raise the height of the chine log. So I did. Now I can use the same bolt for the covers of all the "pens". The foam that I am using is cut from a camping pad. Less than $6 and I can cut it easily and any shape.

Today, I will put another coat of epoxy on the added risers and the ply that covers the insulation. I am putting at least 2 coats on everything, and 3 or 4 on surfaces that will get wet.