FORT JEFFERSON / DRY TORTUGAS

Jan. 18-21, 2013

Sunset at Fort Jefferson.

We arrived at Fort Jefferson, in Dry Tortugas, late Friday afternoon. We anchored, and then crashed. We were exhausted.

s/v Kairos in the background

Saturday was a rest day for us. The two days previous were endless, with little sleep. So, we took a whole day just to catch up. We had to call the park ranger to bring the paperwork to us, as our dinghy was out of commission that day. He was very nice. We told him our story of the storm, and he told us about three 21 year old guys that had sailed from Key West, trying to make their way to Fort Jefferson. They got caught in a storm and ended up in Cuba three days later. We totally understand how that can happen.

Sunday, was fun day. We were anchored directly in front of the fort. We aired up the dinghy, got our oar, and made our way to the fort. From our anchorage, we couldn't see that the fort has a moat, and what's a moat without a crocodile! 

A big boat called Yankee Freedom , brings visitors for a day of swimming, snorkeling and walking through the fort. We discovered that anyone can use the facilities aboard, including buying lunch.  We had run out of snacks, and sandwich makings and sodas, so we took advantage of this. We ate a big sandwich and took chips for a snack the next day. As we were leaving, the guy working the kitchen told us to take a couple of sodas for later. 

By Sunday afternoon, the sun had come out and it felt like the Florida weather I had been waiting for. I put on my swimsuit and got a little sun on the deck. I need to work on my tan. 

Monday was a work day. Get the boat cleaned, everything stowed in it's proper place, and a few repairs needed to be done. The stern light kept going on and off the last couple of night of our sail here. One of the cables connected to the spreader had popped loose and had rapped around the mast, making it impossible to pull the main all the way up. We worked hard and fast, because we wanted to pull away and head for Key West, Florida before the sun went down. We thought it best to get to Key West early Tuesday, because there was many things that needed to be done once we got there. We need to find a place to have repairs done, like fixing the rigging and repairing the wood in the cabin below. Not sure exactly what broke, so we don't know exactly what these repairs will entail. I'm thinking Kairos will need to be hauled out. We will see.

At 7 pm, we pulled anchor and said good bye to the Dry Tortugas. The night was bright, the moon was out and had a huge halo. I hope this is a good thing. I do recommend stopping at the Dry Tortugas if you have the chance.

KEMAH to DRY TORTUGAS - Part 2

Wednesday afternoon (day 6) had been so beautiful, but it turned ugly real quick. The wind picked up and clocked around from the north and the seas swelled to 6 to 8 foot waves. Our rigging was loose, it was dark, we had to think fast. We were south of Louisiana, so we really didn't have a safe harbor close. We believed in s/v Kairos, so we forged on. We tried to furl the staysail, but the sheets were whipping around so violently, they were quickly tangled. Bill and Mako went forward while I stayed at the helm. It was dark, the wind was screaming, the boat was bouncing, and the spray was flying. All I could think was, 'please don't go overboard.' I finally saw Mako making his way back to the cockpit, and all I heard was, "overboard". My heart sank. No, Bill did not go overboard, Mako fell and said, "Better hurt than overboard." Boy, was I relieved to see them both back in the cockpit. For the next two days, we ran with the wind. We surfed, rocked and rolled with confused waves hitting us, BOOM, sometimes heeling to 40 degrees. This was not good for our crippled rigging. We were reefed on a port tack, winds gusting to 35 knots and the waves were hitting us from behind, reaching 12 to 15 feet. When a wave rolled under us at too much of an angle, we surfed down and the gunwale would hit the water. Mako said he saw us heel to 55 degrees at times. The fish started flying in. We tired quickly. Our shifts were long and hard. Sleep was just a short nap, then back in the cockpit.

By Thursday night, all three of us were exhausted. We started to hallucinate. I was wet and the wind was cold, and the spray hit us in the cockpit. I saw all kinds of things. Yes, and those sirens that you've heard stories about… they are out there too. Trust me, I saw them. The nights had been so dark, we couldn't see to steer, we just tried to be at a good angle when the waves hit our stern, so the stress on the rigging would be lessened. Oh yeah, remember, the rigging is still trying to come through the deck. At one point, Bill tells us we might have to get our passports out and he might have to make a call to Hilary, because we are heading for Cuba. We are off course, heading more south, but that's all we can do at this point. When the sun came up, it was the same relief that you get from sitting up all night with a very sick baby. It's just not as scary in the daylight. 

The winds and waves had calmed a little. Our course on the chart plotter looked like we were heading for Cuba, not exactly where we wanted to go. We started the engine and turned upwind. We were close hauled on a port tack. We could make Dry Tortugas before dark. Just about the time we are beginning to relax, there is a loud clang right behind Mako. The fitting on a broken cable support, came off and slammed into the edge of the cockpit, missing Mako's head by inches. It could have been fatal. Two gouges were taken out of the gel coat. 

Photo by Mako Crosby

I spotted the light house at the Dry Tortugas… but forgot to say "Land Ho". Oh well, next time. Our digital charts told us that we could anchor in a channel by Fort Jefferson that was not used anymore, because it was shoaling. We got there, but the channel is now a sandy beach. We turned around and went to the other side of Fort Jefferson, and there we anchored with about seven other boats. Our first attempt with a plow anchor was not successful, we drug. A danforth anchor was pulled from the lazaret and deployed also. We held through the night.

After we anchored, we all took much needed HOT showers. It was good to wash off the layer of salt. We hadn't eaten much in the last two days, so our meal of chips, salsa and chicken flavored rice was delicious! After we ate, we relaxed, laughed and had a couple of beers. It was a good feeling to be just bobbing in the water. We all slept well.

799 nautical miles in 8 days. 

KEMAH to DRY TORTUGAS - PART 1

I've been to Florida three times now, and traveled a different mode every time. The first time was by car, the second by plane. This time was by sailboat. This journey was long and arduous (new word in my vocabulary), but it was a lot more fun and rewarding.

Friday, January 11, 2013, we left Waterford Harbor Marina in Kemah, TX, with "Southern Cross" playing loudly, as is the tradition of s/v Kairos.  As we pulled away from the dock, I got a little teary-eyed and a lump in my throat. This was my home for a while, and I was leaving it and my friends behind, maybe to never see them again. 

On this leg of our journey, several phrases have come to mind:

*  Be Bold and Courageous.

*  The difference between an adventure and an ordeal, is attitude.

*  "If it's going to happen, it's going to happen out there"  ~ Captain Ron

*  The calm before the storm.

Our first day was easy. We motored to Galveston and out to the jetties in about 3 hours, the tide was with us. There is a ship anchorage just outside the jetties. Instead of going through it, we went around it to the north. As the sun went down, the fog rolled in. We couldn't see, but we had radar to help us navigate through the oil platforms. We started our shifts at 8 pm. This was my shift, 8 - 12. 

On our second night, the sky was clear, and I've never seen so many stars, and they were SO BRIGHT!  It was beautiful. Another first, was seeing the lights in the disturbed water our bow makes. They reminded me of the lightening bugs I caught as a child.

Day 3

Running close-hauled on a starboard tack, we are still going through oil rigs. The line holding the bow of the dinghy broke.  We lost one of our oars, the seat, and the gas can that held the gas.  A little later in the day, we noticed that the port side standing rigging was loose. Upon inspection below, we hear a creaking and see water running down the wall on the starboard side at the bulkhead where the starboard chainplate is connected. When the inspection plate was taken off, we could see the chainplate moving up and down approximately 1/2 inch. Scary!

Capt. Bill was able to get a phone signal using one of the oil platforms, and call his son-in-law. There was no answer, so he left a message. His first words were, "DON'T CALL THE COAST GUARD". Then Bill explained our situation, and told him that we are not in distress, but if the rigging doesn't hold… Bill's children will receive a message via our Spot and then the Coast Guard should be called. A few minutes later, the son-in-law calls back… and yes, he called the Coast Guard.  But, he played Bill's message for them, and they understood the situation, had our location, our course, and it was good that they knew, just in case we did need them.

The cracking noise of the cabin seams coming apart, and the rattling of the loose port rigging was un-nerving! As time went by, the rigging kept getting worse. The deck was bulging slightly and beginning to crack. Capt. Bill put on his MacGyver hat; pulled out blocks, shackles and line, and went to work.  He tightened the starboard running rigging and secured both starboard rigging lines to a cleat. It is holding.

The first couple of days, we had 2-3 and 4-6 foot seas. That was Mako's initiation to sailing life. Mako had never been sailing before. He had "on-the-job training".  When I asked him if this is what he expected, he replied, "I thought it would be smoother." The first few afternoon, winds were about 12 knots and calm seas.  A very nice ride, and the rigging was still holding.

For those of you who have not sailed, a sailboat does not stand up straight while she is sailing. She will be heeled over (leaning). Most of our time was heeled at 15 to 20 degrees, sometimes 25. When you are down below, everyday tasks are more difficult. You learn to do some things with one or both feet on the wall, such as; sleeping, showering, and sitting on the toilet. It makes life interesting.

Tuesday afternoon, just before sundown, I saw a splash far away. The seas were calm, so this was unusual. I watched, and saw many dolphins skipping across the water toward us. They were all small, most no more than three feet. They swam with us for about 15 minutes. The water was clear, so we could see them very clearly. It was one of those moments that you think, "this is what it's all about". These are some of the things that make me smile.

Wednesday afternoon.  It was a beautiful day. The winds that afternoon had died down, and we were only doing about 3 knots. We turned on the stereo, sat in the cockpit and told stories. We watched the flying fish and enjoyed the dolphins that came to say hello. Then, the wind filled our sails again and we started to travel faster, then faster… they clocked around from the north… and then it hit…

Tune in next time to hear what happened next.

INTRODUCTIONS

If you are new here, I will catch you up with what's going on in my life.  I was invited to go sailing with a friend I met at Waterford Harbor Marina, where I live. This is an opportunity of a life time. I've spent the last several days getting settled aboard s/v Kairos. My Jeep was sold, and I have my three boats for sale. The work on s/v Kairos is complete, and we will pull away from the dock Friday morning.

In the six years I've lived in this area, I've made many friends, and will miss them all. When possible, I will check my email, upload a post, and Skype with my family. Feel free to send emails or comment on my post.  I love to hear from you guys. This is not goodbye, it's an invitation to embark on this adventure with me through my blog. So, let me introduce the crew....

Captain Bill Carmichael

Forty five years ago I was a teenager, fresh off the farm, when my dad gave me a book called "The Royal Road to Romance" by Richard Halliburton. It was a witty and entertaining travel log of a young man who decided to make his way through Europe and ultimately India in a manner that was, for the time, highly unusual. It was the early 1950's and no one, in those days, backpacked. As for me, I had seen little beyond the cornfields of Indiana and Northern Ohio but through the words of the author I traveled and experienced the romance of the open road. It set a vision in me and now I am about to set sail to follow those dreams of traveling the open sea to far away places. Places that were once just names on a globe will become real. So I've literally been dreaming of this for forty years and anyone who knows me has heard me talk about doing this. I don't think anyone is surprised, except maybe me.

******************

Mako Crosby

Mako Crosby worked as a production audio engineer in Hollywood for over six years before joining the crew of Kairos. His background in audio and filmmaking makes him a valiable asset as radio officer and documentarian for the voyage. Traversing the Sierra Nevadas and the mountain ranges and deserts surrounding Los Angeles has fueled his sense of adventure and exploration. Equipped with years of experience and HD video gear, Mako will be documenting the adventure.

************************

It has come to our attention, that I don't look very pirate-like. Bill and Mako have it down. Do I need a tattoo? wear a do-rag? an eyepatch? Readers... what do you think?

Bookmark my blog, become a follower and we will take you along on our adventure.  Who knows what is waiting out there for us!

Much Interest in TARDIS

Yesterday, I was standing on the dock, watching work being done to the sail of s/v Kairos, when my phone rang. I looked to see who was calling me, and below the number were the words "United Kingdom". I stared at it for a few seconds, confused. Never have I ever had those words on my phone.

It seems that there are a few across the pond, interested in buying TARDIS. The cost to ship a container overseas, is quite expensive though.

Today, I realized there are discussions on several forums, about the sale of TARDIS. She is still available, waiting on her trailer for someone to give her a good home.

Meanwhile, I am here on Kairos. We are waiting for all the contractors to finish their work, so we can take off. Hopefully, that will happen in a couple of days. We have spent our evenings planning routes, playing cards, telling tales, enjoying adult beverages... life is good.  We are having fun, even here at the marina...

"Deal me in and pass that bottle..."

s/v Kairos

Kairos - A Greek word that roughly translated means: 

The brief moment in time when God places your destiny 

before you, and if you seize it with force, the gates

 of heaven will be opened to the dreams of your heart.

Kairos is a superbly crafted sailing vessel designed by Robert Perry who is widely acknowledged as one of the world's most talented marine architects. The Tayana is the culmination of Perry's decades of experience and talent and caps a career of designing and building great blue water sailing craft. 

Tayanas are tanks. It's displacement is 36,000 pounds with 12,500 pounds of ballast in the keel and a mast that towers 70 feet above the waterline the vessel can power through the roughest seas. Kairos loves 30 knot winds.

For those souls who are destined to go to sea there can be no compromise in the choice of vessel. Our lives depend upon the strength and performance of the craft and we know that it is inevitable that we will face winds and waves that will make us pray. Our supplications, then, will be for our own strength to hold; the strength of the Tayana is proven. It is we who are the weak link in the tussle between ship and sea. It is often said that the vessle can take more than you.

 The galley is spacious and is fully equipped.

Salon to port. 

 The nav station. 

Salon to starboard.

Kairos is a very comfortable vessel, has everything, and is beautiful. She will take us safely on our adventure. 

Selling Things...

Okay, I sold my Jeep today.  I feel like I need to sell EVERYTHING.  Leaving possessions behind would be a burden to someone.  So, I have both boats for sale.  One serious buyer for TARDIS and three looker for The Flatulence.

As I said in my earlier post, I am sailing off on s/v Kairos in a few days.  Today, there were many workers that converged on Kairos to finish the work they had started several weeks ago.  They all understand that the work needs to be finished by the end of the week.  We plan to pull away from the dock and start our journey on Saturday.

Later today, Bill, Mako and I went to Randall's Grocery and provisioned our boat.  We will all share galley duty.  I will enjoy meals that I didn't have to cook.

Tonight, we watched the sailing instructional video of "Captain Ron".  I have seen this probably 15 times, and it is still funny.  If you haven't seen it, it is a must see!  Go rent it.

Tomorrow is going to be busy and I am tired and ready for bed.  Good night all...